tournament, a game might have four, six or eight chukkas, which each last for seven minutes of playing time, and at the conclusion require the player to immediately mount another pony and return to the field for a new chukka. The playing was of a high standard with excellent ponies, many of which had been bred and trained at the farm. The playing was helped by the skilful and friendly gauchos who not only looked after
the ponies but prepared them and the tack for the game. They also made ‘matee’ (green tea), served in a wooden bowel sipped through
a small silver pipe and shared communally.
Matee is supposed to be a relaxant before and after playing, and it takes a while to get used to the taste. If you have never tasted matee before, the gauchos look forward to giving it to you and laugh at your initial reaction. My only relief was the famous siesta which players and staff looked forward to, given that dining and conversation inevitably finished close to midnight. On a few occasions dinner was accompanied by talented guitar playing, similar to that of the Gypsy Kings.
Besides playing, I had the opportunity to
go to the famous Ellistina Polo complex and see the stables and world-class horses being trained. These polo fields have a reputation
as the world’s best – the grass is maintained daily and it feels like lying on carpet. While at Ellistina, I was introduced to former 10 goaler and world champion Ganzalo Pieres, who was practising stick-and-ball. He was impressed with the popularity of polo in Australia.
On my way home I did the compulsory
stop in Buenos Aires, watched the Argentine Open and toured the city, learning of its historic achievements.
If you drive along Avenue 9 de Julio, the widest in the world, you get to the Obelisk, a legendary and functional metropolitan centre inaugurated in 1936. On the opposite end of the spectrum you can visit the yellow-and- red workers’ houses at La Boca that show the unusual early settlements still occupied today.